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Cartoon Machine Embroidery Designs
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Free May Gibbs embroidery
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Free embroidery designs
101 Dalmatians
Baby designs
Alice in Wonderland
Asterix and Obelix
Ben 10
Betty Boop
Blue Rhapsody
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Bob the Builder
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Chip & Dale
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Emily the strange
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Forever Friends
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Girls, Cars, Wind
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Yo Gabba Gabba
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Kai Lan
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Sport Numbers embroidery
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Paw Partol
My little cute world!
My Melody
Old Toys
Peppa Pig
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Phineas and Ferb
Pink Panther
Disney Planes
Winnie Pooh Piglet Tigger.....
Pirates of the Caribbean
Precious Moments
Princess and the frog
Ruby Gloom
Rainbow Brite
Scooby Doo
Seven Dwarfs
Skylanders Giants
Cheap embroidery monograms
Sesame Street
Sonic the hedgehog
Spiderman and Iron Man
Star Wars
Strawberry Shortcake
Super Mario
The Jungle Book
Thomas The Tank Engine
The Nightmare Before Christmas
Teddy Bear and friends
Toy Story
Tom and Jerry
The Incredibles
Tribal Racing
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles
Denisov studio designs
Winx enchantix
Zodiac signs
Harry Potter
JBLONJ embroidery designs
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Stabilizers Solutions

Main page Stabilizers Solutions
Question: With so many different types of stabilizers (water, tear-away...) to choose from, are there any rules for which one is best for different types of fabrics (also stretch) and techniques?
Answer: Just like sewing with a good quality thread and needle, to achieve professional sewing results when using Embroidery Cards for (Bernina, Brother, Husqvarna, Janome, Tajima, Melco, PFAFF, - sewing machines) it is important to stabilize the fabric. When the designs are sewn without the proper stabilizer, unsatisfactory results may sometimes occur. In some cases the thread (Robinson-Anton, Madeira, Sulcy, Isacord...)can be "heavier" than the fabric, causing distortion inthe machine embroidery design. There are many different types of stabilizers available and most of them are excellent. Three of the most popular types of stabilizers are tear-away, iron-on and water-soluble. To determine the correct type and the number of layers of stabilizer your project requires, it is recommended to test sew the embroidery before beginning your project. The water-soluble stabilizer may be placed on the right and/or wrong side of the f abric. It eliminates bulk and "whiskers" that are left by tear-away stabilizers. It is used where both sides of the project will be seen when sewing is completed, such as terry cloth. It can also be used on the top of the fabric where the threads may "sink" into the cloth, such as fabrics with nap (velvets and corduroy). Remember that this stabilizer is removed with water so do not place on fabric on which water can not be used. Iron-on and tear-away stabilizers are the most popular. Even combining the two will give great results. These types of stabilizers are only used on the wrong side of the fabric. After the stitching is completed, the excess stabilizer is removed, but the stabilizer under the threads remains. It will not be removable even after several washings. Sometimes, several layers of stabilizer may be required to achieve professional results.Note: If the project requires a heavyweight tear-away stabilizer, try using several layers of lightweight stabilizer instead. It is much kinder on the threads when removing the excess. Lightweight fabrics presents the problem of thethread being heavier than the fabric. You must add volume to the fabric with stabilizer to support the weight of the thread. Try using one layer of iron-on and 2 to 4 layers of tear-away. If the fabric is not only lightweight but also sheer, you may need to try several layers of water-soluble stabilizer on top of the fabric and atear-away underneath. Depending on the design selected to be sewn, spraying the fabric with spray starch or spray sizing can be enough for beautiful results. For medium weight fabrics, try one layer of iron-on and 1 to 2 layers of tear-way stabilizer. For heavy weight or very dense fabric, one layer of either iron-on or tear-away is probably all you will need. When your project has stretch, it may be necessary not only to stabilize but also to interface the stitching area. A good interfacing to have on hand is lightweight fusible knit. Place the stretch of the interfacing going in the opposite direction to the stretch of the fabric and then stabilize. There are also two fairly new stabilizers on the market that are paper-backed release adhesive sheets. One is a tear-away and the other is water-soluble. The inner hoop of the embroidery hoop is not required. The stabilizer is "stuck" to the outer hoop and the fabric "sticks" to the stabilizer. This is perfect for collars, cuffs and other small projects where it is difficult to get the project in the hoop. This type of stabilizer is also great for fabrics that may be harmed by "hooping." Give one of these suggestions a try for better looking Professional Style Machine Embroidery.
Question: I'm using an iron-on tear away stabilizer when I embroider on lightweight sweatshirts, but they still seem to stretch when stitched. Any suggestions?
Answer: An iron-on stabilizer is recommended when embroidering on sweatshirts (any ...), however they come in several weights. It is best to use the heavier weight iron-on, and in addition use a layer of water-soluble stabilizer on top of your sweatshirt, within the hoop. The use of an iron-on interfacing, ironed on with the grain in the opposite direction of the shirt is also very helpful when embroidering on knits. When using an iron-on stabilizer the fabric can not shift or stretch, making it easier to embroider on and with the use of an iron-on interfacing you will have no stretch or puckers when you embroider.
Question: When I do professional style embroidery, the fabric often puckers, or the outline of the design doesn't meet the design precisely. I am using a tear away stabilizer underneath the hoop. What can I do to correct this problem?
Answer: This is a very common situation. Even though you are using astabilizer, it is not adequately stabilized. Try an iron-on tear-away stabilizer such asFirm Hold (example) or Totally Stable (example), ironed on the back and put into the hoop. Occasionally another layer or two of stabilizer is also placed under the hoop. (Tear these off one layer at a time.) With a stretchy knit shirt or terry cloth, we sometimes also add a water Soluble layer of Solvy (Floriani, OESD..) (example) or Dissolve(example)on top! When you are embroidering a design with very dense stitches-the fabric shrinks, hence you get Puckers, or the outline stitches don't line up. We prefer the hoop #1, because you can open it wide, and tighten with a screwdriver -- We use it in Combination embroidery designs because we can get it very tight.

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